• THE CITY OF SALT

     The rain followed me until Tuzla, 4th biggest and mostly industrial city of BiH. This "salt city" (tuz is the Turkish word for salt), is above all famous for its natural saltwater springs.  I have to say that I was quite surprised when I have been there, imagining a big natural place, and eventually found a kind of outdoor pool where you can't swim in without buying a ticket, with fake huts and deck chairs ...
    But the most interesting factor for me was that I heard it had been a special multi-cultural city for ages. Situated in the North West of BiH, its location looks like a croossroads between the 2 parts of Republika Srpska, the Bosnian (muslims) area, and its Croatian and Serbian neighbours. This important melting pot spot is famous for its historical struggles against every occupation (Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian and Nazi), and for the support between people and  in time of troubles. In my opinion, this could maybe explained by the numerous factories in the city, implying that  evrybody works together , turning the social relationships prevail on ethnical consideration...? Boris, my host there, is a good representation of this: son of a Croatian mother and Serbian father, and frequenting a muslim girl, he considers himself as a full Bosnian.

    INTRODUCTION     INTRODUCTION     INTRODUCTION     INTRODUCTION       INTRODUCTION 

    TIME OF GYPSIES

    Here in Tuzla I had my first contact with Gypsy people.
    They welcomed me at the exit of the bus, a child trying to carry my big pagpack out from the bus trunk. I moved him, because I didn't want to give any money, and also because this bag was very heavy for this small boy! Then of course him more other children started to ask for some money. I proposed an apple to the first one, he accepted and ran with it, so glad! I felt bad that I have been a little rude with him first. And I got quite frightened when I offered all my apples to the other ones, and see that they were having the same reaction, running everywhere and trying to steal each other! Fuck! those children were really hungry, they are not lying! When I sit out from the station to wait for my host, a small gypsy girl who may be 8 or 9 years old sit next to me. She didn't get any apple so I proposed her some bread that I had in my bag, but she saw the cheese in the same bag and started to ask for it. I refused, telling her it was bread or nothing, so she started to insistently begging, as gypsies make so well. When I left with my host, she told "fuck you", I was not surprised...
     The day after, I was sit on a café, and I saw her coming and begging from the people there outside. She recognized me and said Ciao with a smile, not vindictive at all from the day before. I told her to come and proposed some strawberries I just bought (Oh yeah, in BiH I'm eating strawberries almost everydays: for 1,5€ I get half a kilo, and they are very tasty!!), and she was shy to take it. She was carrying a small bag where she collected some things and  I asked her whet she had : she showed me several things and offered me a little bag of honey that you get in bars with tea. I found it sweet.
     The day after I saw her again, entering in the big trash compartment and opening all the bags trying to find anything. I know that it's the life of a lot of gypsy children, and the great thing is that she was not ashamed at all when I came to her, going out from this big trash with her child innocence! I tried to speak with her, asking for what she have found today, she showed me, very proud of her treasure, some porcelain cups, still intact. And she insisted a lot to give me one! I refused, and went with her to the backery to get a cake for her... Then I made some pictures of her and she was so happy to see herself on the camera! INTRODUCTIONEven if  I didn't change anything in her life and she willl probably continue to live in misery, I'm glad that I brought some smiles to this sweet little girl that I first condidered as a small monster...

    INTRODUCTION

     

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